Thursday, October 14, 2010

Playa Cocles

I woke up early & got out to explore the various beaches on foot. I decided to walk dirt path through the jungle that follows the coast. The turquoise hue of the ocean is spectacular & the temperature perfect. I spied lots of private little coves for swimming along the way, then suddenly came out to a long, broad sand beach. As I made my way further along I encountered an area where a sand bar separated the ocean & an inlet. A few locals were there swimming in the calm water, since there were red flags warning that currents were too strong for swimming on the ocean side. It was a beautiful scene, & getting hot in the sun, so I decided I would get back to the hotel & get ready to spend the afternoon on the beach.

I again walked the beach path several kilometers to get to Playa Cocles. Unfortunately the wind was blowing the sand so that it stung & made it difficult to sit on the beach for long. It was still a great day, I enjoyed swimming in the lagoon area where the water was calmer.

On the return walk, I was amazed & very fortunate to get to see a sloth cross the road. He slowly made his way down the tree he was in, across the path, into the bushes & finally started up another tree. All this took over a half hour. Sloths are a unique mammal, not a bear or monkey but seem like a cross between the two. They move extremely slowly & have excellent camouflage. This one was a 3 toed sloth, it gingerly placed a long clawed paw out in front, then followed with the next paw, all the while swiveling his head from one side to the other, as if in slow motion.
The name for sloth in Spanish is perezoso, which literally means lazy.



















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Puerto Viejo to Manzanilla

On my second day here I rented a bicycle to make the trek down the coast to Manzanilla, a quieter beach area. It was lush, flowering rainforest all the way, but rough road smattered with potholes. I took some side roads to see views of Punta Uva, a rarely visited beach area. The ride was hot but so peaceful. I finally arrived in Manzanilla & got some lunch overlooking the ocean. As I wandered out to find a good spot to swim, I ran into the Spanish couple I had met on the boat from Tortuguero. We swam for a while, then got a refreshing fresh fruit smoothie, I tried an interesting one with ginseng & Ginger. We rode back together, hurrying to make it to town before dark. However I spotted a troop of black howler monkeys in some trees near the street, & we had to stop to watch them. After a couple minutes they wandered closer & we were able to see 2 babies frolicking alongside their mothers.
















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Arrival in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

After spending many hours walking the beach in Tortuguero, searching the jungle for wildlife, relaxing in a hammock, & exploring the town, it was time to move on. I left by boat for a 3 hour trip down the river to Moin, spotting colorful birds & other wildlife along the way. From there I shared a cab with a fun couple from Barcelona to the southern beach towns.

What a gorgeous Caribbean coast! I found a lovely little hotel of cabins set amongst gardens & tile walkways. I have a patio with hammock to relax in this peaceful haven. The town is reputed to be a bit of a party spot, & I have already smelled & seen the rastafarian culture walking down the streets. There are several restaurants, with a variety of fare to choose from, including seafood, Spanish, Caribbean, & Asian. The wind is strong & the ocean rough, so supposedly no boats may go out snorkeling or diving for a few days, but there seems to be plenty to occupy my time.









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Tuesday, October 12, 2010

More wildlife in Tortuguero

An insect outside my window




Tree frogs







Caiman






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Monday, October 11, 2010

Tortuguero

I am staying at a great little place across from the beach for $25 per night. It includes a hot breakfast with a different pitcher of fresh fruit juice every day, served at my convenience on my balcony overlooking the ocean. I've enjoyed some time relaxing in the hammock listening to the waves, & even got a mani/pedicure right on my balcony.
The real reason I am here is obviously to see the turtles. It is the end of the season for them to lay their eggs, but there are still plenty to see. I tried to get involved in some volunteer work with them here, but I was told it is too late in the season. I actually went on a night tour to watch one lay eggs. It was quite an interesting & informative experience.
Turtles can see very well & sense movement, but they do not hear well. If they see light or sense movement, they will retreat into the ocean without laying their eggs. We had to wear dark clothes & stay close to the guide. The park rangers regulate the beaches very well & it is prohibited to be on the beach after 6 pm except with a guide. Once the turtle settles into the nest she has dug, she goes into a trance as she begins to lay the eggs. This is why we were able to watch. The rangers let us know when we could approach & the guide shown the light on the back of the turtle. The white eggs, shaped like & the size of ping pong balls, plopped out a few at a time, along with oozing clear slime. We had to be careful not to wake her from her trance, but were allowed to stay afterward to watch her cover the eggs with sand. She tries to camouflage where she laid them in the huge hole she created.
Only about 1-3% of the turtles will survive. Many eggs are eaten by predators on the beach, especially birds. The mother never returns to check on her eggs. When they begin to hatch after 60 days of incubation, they have 7 hours to get to the water. Many at once hatch & push each other down or suffocate others in the sand. Many get eaten on their way to the ocean or as soon as they enter the ocean. Those that survive will not return to the beach for 30 years, when they return to the same place they were born to lay their first eggs. The sex of the turtles is determined by the weather; if the season is warmer, a higher percentage will be female, if colder more will turn out male.

The most amazing thing I saw one evening on the beach was about 30 baby turtles at once making their way as fast as they could straight into the ocean. As babies they are smaller than the palm of my hand. It is awesome to think of the instinct they have, knowing that they must get to the water, never having been in the ocean, the first wave picks them up & they must swim out to sea.

There are four species of turtles that nest on this black sand beach throughout the year. The green turtle we saw laying eggs was enormous. They return to the same beach every year, 7-9 times, to lay 90-120 eggs at a time. The entire process of coming up the beach, digging a nest, laying & covering the eggs, then returning to the ocean, takes about 2 hours.

I was up early every morning, walking miles along the beach to see if any baby turtles lingered. Unfortunately I found a few dead ones, already being eaten by ants or flies. I did however find a couple that had become disoriented & was able to help them find their way to the ocean.

















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Costa Rica

I have arrived in Costa Rica to begin my adventures in Central America. I will be traveling, exploring & doing some volunteer work for the next 2 & 1/2 months, returning to the US in time to spend Christmas with my family. I have not made a lot of reservations for this trip and do not plan to join any big group tours. I am being more spontaneous about where I stay & for how long as I am reading a lot as I go & talking to other travelers, but I have a good idea of where I want to go & what I want to see.
I arrived in San Jose in the afternoon on Tuesday, October 5. I was immediately pleased to feel the warm, humid tropical air. I have been most excited for this part of my travels. Central America is a long, thin strip of land with the Pacific on one side & the Caribbean on the other, with rain forests full of wildlife in between as, well as a smattering of volcanoes, cloud forests, lakes, rivers for white water rafting, lots of ancient ruins, islands off the coast with great diving...so much adventure!
I have been to Costa Rica before, but there is so much to do, so I want to see some of the areas I missed on the first trip. I wanted to get out of the city ASAP, so I stayed the first night near the airport in San Jose & took a 6:00 am flight the next day to Tortuguero. I was surprised to walk out of the airport & see the small plane & only 2 other passengers. The pilot walked us out, opened the door & told us to hop in. He started up the plane, took a couple minutes to check his gauges as we watched, then he turned around to say it would be a 20 min flight & a bit cloudy, & we took off. An exciting way to begin the trip!
Upon arrival there was a boat taxi to take us to the town, then a young guy met me to walk me to the hotel I had reserved online. Tortuguero is a very small town, a few sand streets, no motorized vehicles at all. What a great place to relax for a few days.
















Saturday, October 9, 2010

Buzios










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Friday, October 8, 2010

Rio














Ihla Grande

One of the top 10 beaches in the world according to one popular magazine.



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Saturday, August 21, 2010

Argentina for a day

The tour group crossed into Argentina to see the falls, & luckily we had a beautiful sunny day, nearly exact opposite weather from the day before. I have decided the Argentine side is better to view the falls, there is a lot more to see & beautiful jungle walks along the way. I was also happy to be in a Spanish speaking country again; amazing how just across the border they don't understand one another's language. I walked all through the park & took a boat over to a little island for more views while the rest of the group took a boat tour into the falls, which I had previously done. The sun created spectacular rainbows & it was a beautiful day.
In the evening a few of us went out for a real Brazilian Churrasceria. There was a huge salad bar to start, a hot food bar with sides & spaghetti, & the waiters came around with many kinds of meat for us to try, including some great cuts of beef, pork, & even chicken hearts. To finish it off there was a dessert bar with at least 25 varieties of sweets; our agreed favorite was the passion fruit cake. Everything was delicious, & everyone went back to the hotel with a belly ache from overindulging.























Foz de Iguazu

I spent a few days visiting Iguazu Falls, which claims to be one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. I had previously seen the falls on a trip to Argentina to visit my cousin Kelli, but I had not seen them from the Brazilian side, & as amazing as it is to see, I sure didn't mind a second visit. Foz de Iguazu is the town on the Brazilian side where we stayed.
Unfortunately this first day was chilly & cloudy, but a gorgeous site anyway. I decided to do the optional helicopter tour over the falls, not cheap but a great way to get a different perspective.
We took our time walking through the national park getting different views of the falls. There was a long pier you could walk out onto, but even wearing a poncho I got soaked from the spray. At the very end we were surrounded by hungry coatis (similar to raccoons) hoping for a compassionate tourist.